May 29th 2008
What exactly determines quality?
The quality of a garment is determined by the characteristics of each
of its components...from fiber to fabric to the very last finishing
detail. To the discerning eye, quality is evident in the external
appearance of a garment. It is also evident in the details not seen
from the outside: interfacings, linings and construction techniques.
These elements not only affect how the garment looks, but how it will
retain its shape, and how it will wear. High priced garments are
expected to be high quality garments, but this is not always true.
We've all been disappointed after buying a new garment only to find it
is no longer serviceable after a few wearings. Rather than hassle with
returns and fighting with store clerks, select fashions after examining
the garment from the inside and out. Before you even go into the
dressing room, read the fiber content label, tug at the seams, make
sure the garment is free of puckering and hangs straight.
Fashon Fabric
Each
fiber has qualities that give particular characteristics to the fabrics
made from those fibers. Some fibers are absorbent, some are resilient,
some are less durable, etc. Each fiber has positive and negative
characteristics, and there is really no one perfect fiber. However,
recent innovations in fiber technology have given the consumer more
durable and comfortable fabrics than ever before! The fiber content
label required by federal law to be permanently attached in each
garment must indicate the percentage of each fiber present in the
garment. Always check this carefully! You can make many assumptions
about the garment based on the fiber content alone. The characteristics
of the fabric depend on the type of construction method. Some are more
durable than others. The yarns per inch in a fabric are a direct
indication of quality. Higher yarn count translates into a higher
quality fabric.
Higher twist yarns in a fabric are stronger, indicating higher quality
fabrics. Supportive Fabrics/Shaping Devices: These are fabrics used on
the INSIDE of a garment, used to fulfill one of several purposes. The
fabrics used for interfacings are supportive and build shape and
stability in small areas. The fabrics used for underlinings add support
and durability to the fashion fabric. Linings add support and
durability, are usually decorative and enclose construction details.
All of these are a significant factor in quality of the garment.
Supportive fabrics should be fastened securely, finished appropriately,
and should not wrinkle or distort the fabric. Linings should be caught
at shoulder seams to prevent slippage and pulling. Linings should have
at least a ¾" deep center back pleat to release extra fullness for
movement. Linings and fashion fabrics should have compatible care
requirements.
Construction Details
Fabric designs should be cut and sewn so the design is not distorted.
Designs must be matched in construction of the garments. Plaids must
match both vertically and horizontally. Matching is costly and may be
difficult to find in low cost garments. Stitch length should be
appropriate to the fabric used. Generally small stitches indicate
quality, but some fabrics require longer stitches to avoid
seam-puckering. Thread color should match the fashion fabric.
Transparent thread, which easily unravels, is often used to cut costs.
Endings should be secure so that they will not pull out. Puckering is a
result of poor sewing techniques. Pressing will NOT correct puckering
in seams. Much ready-to-wear has narrow serged seams. Other seam
finishes include pinking, edge stitching, overlocking, encased, bound,
French, flat-felled and Hong Kong. Finished seams add durability to the
garment. Hems should be invisible from the right side of the garment.
Hem depth depends on fabric and style of garment. Usually more
expensive garments have deeper hems, which are easier to alter. Hem
finishes should be appropriate to fabric. Sleeves should be set in
smoothly without signs of puckering. Sleeves should have comfortable
ease in fit so that it doesn't draw or pull on the body. Collars should
be placed on the garment so that both sides are symmetrical, unless
indicated by design. Collars should have interfacing for support,
well-defined edges and a good shape. The undercollar should not be
visible from the right side. Pockets, though often overlooked by the
consumer, should be checked to make sure pocket depth is sufficient to
be functional.
Finishing Details
All findings should be properly placed and securely attached. Check
buttons to make sure they are fastened securely. Buttonholes should be
properly placed and correctly sized to accommodate buttons. Bound
buttonholes area a sign of quality. Machine made buttonholes should
have close stitches and secure threads to prevent raveling. Zippers
should zip! Zippers should be covered by the fashion fabric and be
installed in such a manner to stay closed. For quality, a hook and eye
is often placed at the top of the placket to ensure closure. Some
quality garments have hand-picked zippers that are sewn with small hand
stitches that are invisible. If there are applied designs (decorative
trim) the trim should be in keeping with the quality of the garment.
Check for appropriate placement and secure attachment.
Pressing is extremely important. Pressers are one of the highest paid
workers in the garment industry. Garments can be ruined by improper
pressing. Each detail of the garment should be pressed into position as
it is being made. Whether this is done or not, is evident in the final
garment. Overpressing on the right side can cause permanent
indentations or show dart impressions, pocket imprints, etc.
Several other factors influence the pricing of
garments. The garment may be expensive because the fabric is costly.
This does not necessarily indicate a quality garment. Manufacturers may
use high quality fabrics and cut corners on the construction or
finishing details in order to keep price down. The exclusiveness of the
design also affects price. If only a few garments of one design are cut
this is reflected in a higher price. Garments composed of many pattern
pieces or oddly shaped pieces require more seaming and special handling
than other less intricate garments. Matching fabric design (such as
checks or plaids) requires more fabric, time and labor. If done
properly the garment price increases. The amount of handwork affects
price. Linings stitched by hand, fabric covered snaps or buttons,
hand-installed zippers and hand hemmings will all increase the price.
The price of the trims used (if any) influence price. Furs, lace,
ribbons, buttons will increase the price.
Take a look for yourself
Visit a mass-market retailer and a high-end boutique. Concentrate on
one garment type, such as suits. You will probably find a disparity
among the garments. I think you will find the brand name, the garment's
cost, and the type of retail store do not always match assumptions
about the quality. Take your time and inspect the garment carefully...and
when that curious salesclerk asks if she can help you, just smile and
say, "No, I am just looking!"
Author: by Nancy Kelley, President - Textile Fabric Consultants, Inc.
Source: http://www.textilefabric.com